My day job shop has 2 air filters I modified to house 4 filters instead of the single factory filter. 3/4″ plywood (off cuts) makes the frame and 1/8″ ply (free cover sheet wrapping) skins the outside. This makes each one lightweight, they can be lifted down each day for cleaning.
Spent 2 weeks clearing out old stock & making some space. There is still a lot of lumber to use up, which will make room for future projects. Cabinetry requires large areas, for set-up & storage. Shop workflow didn’t exist, now there is a large area for setup at the back. Carts can easily move & tools are close to where they are used. It’s like feeling grown up or something….
First I cut a sheet of plywood on the table saw, so I have 2 parallel sides. Now comes the tricky bit, how to cut it to length? Without spending about $1800 (minimum) for a professional machine. It is either time to spend a lot of money, or make one for super cheap. Anything in between is going to be a waste of money.
This vertical panel saw only cuts 90 deg. angles – and cost less than $150. It is made out of 1 sheet of construction plywood, 1 sheet of 1/2″ MDF, 1 track with positive stop, 1 length of hose to a vacuum / dust collector, 1 threaded knob & machine screw. In the future I will upgrade the parts of this that wear out – with a metal fence & guide stops.
Operation is simple:
remove the vertical saw guide
place the plywood sheet on the bottom fence
turn on the dust collector, making a vacuum table, holding the plywood in place
put the vertical circular saw guide on, using the 1/4″ spacers at the top to hang it
make the cut, turn off vacuum, remove plywood, check for square
This will speed the cabinetry up, and save me a few melt-down moments….
Shop walls don’t have to be pretty, but must be rugged. I used OSB / Wafer Board, cut the sheets into strips, used a ship lap join, and they screwed them to the walls & ceiling. By using strips of wood, this makes handling them alone much easier than a 4′ X 8′ sheet. It also makes measuring for the electrical boxes easier.
We now have an airless sprayer, wow, the entire shop was sprayed in 2 coats in 3 hours. Then the 49 lights went up.
New interior wall is up, electrical panel, and roughed-in wiring. Rich came by to help pull some wire and drill holes, but felt awful part way through the day.
The interior wall has a large base & top plate with 2X4 verticals. These verticals are offset, and each is 16″ O.C., so insulation will go between them. Electrical is easy to weave between these. Hopefully this will help with noise dampening, combined with a pair of doors to be made for this wall. Noise will have to get out 2 sets of doors, and a whole lot of noise insulation.
Anyone who frames is going WHOA?? What? The wall is over engineered – hugely. I had some massive lintels left over, and thought, wth. Why not? They were cracked a little, and I didn’t want to use them on anything bearing real load – but sandwiched between is blocking, making this a solid and sound piece, that is supporting, umm, well, nothing.
& yes, that is a cup of coffee on the table saw. That saw bed is resin, so no iron in it. But I shouldn’t have it there out of habit.
Moore vents attach under roof deck, helping keep the roof cooler in summer and a thermal break in winter so icing up is reduced. They also keep moving air away from batt insulation. Batt / loose insulation acts as an air filter, and when it captures enough dirt it no longer has insulating value. Insulation is trapped air, and dirty insulation is a thermal conductor.
These vents are overlapped from peak towards lower wall, so any roof leaks are channeled down & outside. Staples hold each vent in place before insulation is packed in the cavity. Spray foam insulation will seal around the vents at outside walls.